Q: My skin feels dry and coarse these days. Will exfoliating make it worse?

A: No. In fact exfoliation will help the condition if the pH is not too low (must be above 3.8), and the product contains ingredients such as glycolic or lactic acid. Be wary of harsh scrubs and OTC products that promise to do everything. Contact a good skin care specialist, and use professional products that have published independent clinical studies.

Q: My aesthetician tells me that I must use sunscreen everyday, rain or shine. Is this true?

A:  Yes, she is correct. The UVA rays are out in full force, everyday whether we can see the sun or not. The UVA rays are the most damaging rays, as they have the longest wavelength and go right into the dermis of the skin and begin cell destruction. Your sunscreen must have an SPF of at least 30, and should contain zinc oxide and or titanium dioxide. Go to www.epa.gov/sunwise/uvindex.html to learn about your UV index at your very own zip code.

Q: I am noticing more “brown spots” on my skin. What can I do to prevent this from happening?

A: In two words: USE SUNSCREEN. Hyperpigmentation can be created easily through UVA/UVB radiation, hormones, and injury to the skin. Depending upon the depth of the pigmentation, the remedies can vary.

If the pigment is deeper, such as that created by hormones (such as pregnancy mask/melasma) it may be that you need a combination of drug therapy and laser or light therapies. (Not, indicated for use during pregnancy, however.)

Hydroquinone, now under review by the FDA, has been the gold standard for lifting pigment. In combination with bleach or lightening agents; light and laser therapies; and microdermabrasion and chemical peels can all be excellent for lifting brown pigment. One must use environmental protection with an SPF of at least 30 daily, use personal protection devices such as hats, glasses and clothing, and avoid sun during the hours of 10-3 daily to keep pigment from returning.

*Other lightening agents such as licorice, arbutin, bearberry, lemon extract, kogic acid have all been used for pigmentation problems with limited results

Q:  There are so many products on the market today, how do I know that I am getting the best products for my skin?

A:  This is the question on every skin care specialists mind when we go to purchase products for our clients. We rely heavily on the aestheticians, dermatologists and plastic surgeons developing the products, and look closely at their clinical studies. We often conduct our own studies before we purchase lines, and then if the products don’t perform, we are able to eliminate them before anyone makes costly buying mistakes.

To look at this question directly as a consumer, you can tell whether a product is working for you, if your skin is looking and feeling better with it. It’s plain and simple. We should not be using “so-so” or “me too” products in this product climate or culture.

Some products will do absolutely nothing for your skin, yet they may have great marketing campaigns. Other more obscure or unknown products that are offered through a professional often are the best route to go, as you get the support in finding the best products for your skin’s type and current condition. I guarantee you that you will spend less in the long run if you follow the advice of a thoughtful professional.

Many of us are lured by Internet specials and bargain basement prices, and we all have drawers full of products that we never intend to use, but got a good deal on.  If a company can afford to sell you products at huge discounts, you are still paying too much.

One of the best compliments I have received as a skin care specialist is, “I use every product that I buy from you Sallie to the last drop.” It’s music to my soul. I know that we are on track. Also, if something ceases to work, my clients (after 12 years) know that they can come to me and say, “I feel like I need to tweak something…what can we do?”

Q:  My aesthetician does not listen to me. I always end up with more products than I want or need. I like her, what can I do?

A: Communication is the problem here. You need to tell her that you are a two or three product user. Bring in all of the products that she has sold to you over time, and ask her what she can do to provide you with fewer products that may create the same result. For example, many product lines today have eliminated toners or conditioners, and some daytime moisturizers have high SPF loads with Zinc Oxide, and antioxidants for daily protection, this eliminating two or three steps right there.

Keep in mind, many of us love great products and have many products that we like to switch out with on a regular basis. If you are working with someone who understands the cosmetic chemistry in a product, this can be the best of both worlds, and the skin is the winner in the long run, by keeping a rotation going. Waking it up…so to speak.